Russia 2019 - #1 post

First, let me begin my journey with a few facts from a book and from experiences. Steve and I are on a journey from Kamloops/Seoul, Korea/Russia (from east to west)/Helsinki, Finland/Reykjavik, Iceland/Vancouver/Kamloops. We left June 7^th and arriving back in Kamloops, July 15, 2019. The 1^st leg to Seoul, saw us there for 3 days, leaving on the 4^th day for Vladivostok, Russia. There, we caught the Trans Siberian Railway. I have been told, no other rail journey can compare to this. It was once called “the fairest jewel in the crown of the Tsars”. We could only get a 30 day tourist visa. We decided the lay over in Seoul would be good to get over jet lag, sleeping and adjusting and then start our 30 day visit fresh. We leave St. Peterburg on the 30^th day. 

The track runs from Moscow to Vladivostok and across 7 time zones, even though there are 11 time zones in all of Russia. The rail line from Moscow to St. Petersburg, is not part of the Trans Siberian, but the line continues on from Moscow eastward into Mongolia and China. The average speed is only 60km/h, so, if you're in a hurry, catch a plane.

There is a restaurant car and I recommend you NOT eat the food! We did 'once' and only once because it was free with our first class ticket. From then on, we went to the grocery stores and stocked up on Noodle packs just like everyone else..just add hot water and stir. Turn the red handle and you get lots of hot hot water. There is one in every car.

The Provodnista, is SHE WHO SHALL BE OBEYED! She is the gate keeper of the car you are riding in and that rail-car is her fiefdom. Piss her off, and your ride will be very uncomfortable. On each leg, we bribed ours with a small souvenir from Canada ..so far, at the time of writing, only one was grouchy..no gift for her. She never vacuumed once, where as the others vacuumed 2 times or more. One Provodnista, was a young man and he even vacuumed but fell short on bathroom duties. Here is an older gentleman as a Provodnista and 2 ladies.

 We traveled 1^st class and am I ever glad. 3^rd class was just down right too hard for me to handle just walking through it to get to a dinning car, ..that day we decided to travel 2^nd class because we were only on the train for 6 hours. The smells in 3^rd class were quite over powering as everyone brings out their food..everyone has a different kind of

sausage, or cheese, or eggs or whatever and once those smells mingle..hold your breath and focus on the exit. When traveling 1^st class your car is next to the dinning car so you don't have to walk through the other classes..and I'm sorry if I sound like a snob.

1^st class car, means you have your own room, with 2 beds, sometimes a TV, and the toilet is at each end of the car. 2^nd class, means 4 people share a room with 2 bunks (4 beds) and its 1^st come 1^st serve on who gets what bunks..survival of the fastest. 3^rd class is wide open bunks and 'stools', no privacy, and you get to meet everyone on board and sleep with everyone on board, and all smells and noises at no extra charge. But, in all classes, the 1^st thing everyone does, is gets into your 'traveling clothes/pajamas' or what ever floats your boat. I found that very refreshing. I changed into mine in the 1^st hour but I did get dressed when we went to the dining car to look out their nice big windows.

 Tips, Etiquette and observations:

I hate these god damn &*%$# toilets with a passion, and that's not saying really how I feel. With a bad back, its even worse..and even more worse, is taking a dump squatting. So here's the rule: if you're just peeing, face the wall..taking a dump, face the door..and that's a voice of experience...and you don't want to know how I know. Now, just in case I got it wrong, anyone out there can comment on the correct way. ALWAYS, ALWAYS carry your own toilet paper and handy-wipes..you're gonna need those little gems for sure. I feel sorry for the disabled. Man, I just can't begin to imagine the angst they go through. So far, these 'toilets' are more in the east. At the time of writing, half way through Siberia, I haven't come across one. What I am coming across are toilets with no seat. Again, assume the squatting position. If they are a full 'western' toilet, the seat is only lowered to take a dump and thou shalt NOT leave the toilet seat down!!! If you do, you will need your handy dandy handy-wipes before seating yourself.

Pack your sense of humor, patience and expectations! I have a warped sense of humor, little patience and mediocre expectations but I have a lot of common sense! There are some things that I tolerate ..to a point..and then that's it! The gloves are off and so are all bets. I have reached my max with those toilets and rudeness from taxi drivers and owners/property managers and I am not quite halfway through this huge huge

country!

We are staying in Air B&B's all the way on this journey, with the one exception in Vladivostok as it was a Boutique Hotel. The Air B&B's people have all been late letting us in, showing up, explaining things, and just being unfriendly. We have been left out on the street, in the rain and finally others took pity on us and let us in their building to get out of the elements. We have been unceremoniously dumped in apartments with no explanation on how to run their stove, washer, etc. Sometimes left with only a 1/2 roll of toilet paper, few pots/frying pan and they only provide 1 towel for each of you, some have no knives, some only 2 of each kitchen thing, some with showers that are 'fixed/do not move' pointing at the back wall and no adjustment and they all are combined with bath tubs that are 4' deep that if you have a back problem, getting in or out is extremely painful. It is mandatory that they all have uncomfortable furniture..that's a given..however the beds have all been great...there is a god. BUT all, have been selected for their location and Steve has done an outstanding job on that. When I say location, I mean physical location  because so far we have had some that are on the 3rd and 5th floors...NO elevator. The one posted here was on the 5th floor, 78 stairs, 9 landings..the 3rd floor one was 4 landings and 48 stairs. I counted stairs..and now, even going into the subway, I count stairs. They all look like nice apartments but some are not very functional, but very affordable. That's us on the very top on the far right. The 'balconies' are 'loggia'..really like them. Great for gardening and drying clothes. Our apart did not have one.

We have been tipping 10% on restaurants but no longer tip taxi or Yandex (like Uber) drivers. There is the regular 'where you go gang' at the railway station and some of them are just plain rude and crooks. This one guy wanted 1000 rubble's, we ended up paying 400 and later found out the rate was 150 at the most. People like him should be sent to Siberia..oh, wait a minute, that's where we are.

Wearing of your shoes inside the door is forbidden! We have not tried the Vodka..yet, but they sure make good beer. We travel with bread, cheese, sausage and wine. All train clocks run on Moscow time, not local time, so you had best check your ticket to see if its on local time or not. Once there was a time change, we did not realize it, and thought we had an extra hour. However, when we realized it was our stop and we were not packed yet, you should have seen the flurry. Pandemonium springs to mind.

I will leave it here and continue to fight with this website. This has taken over 9 hours to produce. Good thing we had a shitty weather day and we needed a day off. Sleeping on the train is very fitful so it was good to chill out. We are currently in Novosibirsk but catching the train tonight for Yekaterinburg. Will post from Vladivostok next time.